When Neil Syham was growing up in Staten Island, N.Y., nearly every summer weekend meant a party with dozens of Filipino relatives. “All the families would cook a small dish, and we would always bring lumpia,” he says. Lumpia — meat-and-vegetable-filled spring rolls brought to the Philippines by Chinese traders in the 7th century — …
Tag | recipe
American food, Japanese style
As a cooking teacher in Tokyo, Hiroko Shimbo noticed a sharp difference between her Japanese students and the American expatriates who also frequented her classes. “When you teach Japanese students, they are very quiet,” Shimbo says. “They don’t ask questions; they just listen to the teacher.” Her expat students were another story. “They came to my class …
Community Kitchen: pound cake and prayers
My grandmother taught me to make pound cake. Many times when we arrived at her house for a visit, she would have one just coming out of the oven. Now, I’ve heard some debate about whether pound cake is best hot or after it’s cooled and you can really relish the dense, buttery texture, but …
Pie is a slice of life in Indiana
When Emily Leatha Everson Gleichenhaus was growing up in Indiana, warm, soft sugar cream pie was a staple on her breakfast table. “We would eat them as dessert and also for breakfast,” she says, remembering the pies that came from the Wick’s Pies in Winchester. “Sugar cream pie is totally part of my memories of …
Community Kitchen: Grandma Thea’s pie
My dad doesn’t really cook. Working 9 to 5 with a heavy-traffic commute, he usually leaves the cooking to my mom and, in recent years, to me. The few things that he does cook, though, he cooks very well: fluffy and tender scrambled eggs on weekend mornings, baguettes from scratch that he pulls out once …
How a nice Filipino girl learned to cook brisket
When Andrea Golden was in college at Virginia’s George Mason University, her best friend had a cute boyfriend. The boyfriend had a twin. Andrea and Mark Golden will celebrate their 15th anniversary in October. And besides producing three adorable children, one of their greatest projects has been merging their two cultures through food. Andrea grew …
American lamb moving from pasture to plate
Like most Americans, Marjorie Meeks-Bradley did not grow up eating lamb. Although her mother was an early proponent of the Slow Food movement and cooked from Alice Waters’ cookbooks, Meeks-Bradley, a northern California native, says that this mostly pasture-raised meat just wasn’t in the picture—or on the plate. “It always seemed a little exotic,” says …
Moravian ‘lovefeast’ heralds Easter
In the run-up to Easter Sunday, Camille McDowell has been reviewing her shopping list, verifying ranks of volunteers, and generally trying to head off bedlam at a massive church breakfast beginning late Saturday night in Winston-Salem, N.C. “We’ll feed close to a thousand people in varying shifts,” says McDowell, groaning in mock dread at the …
‘Green Grandma’ to the rescue
Patti Miller and Leslie Hotaling are creating new Appalachian cuisine with the help of some old friends. The co-owners of Panorama at the Peak restaurant in Berkeley Springs, W.Va., marry ancient ingredients with fresh ideas. Hot bacon dressing inspired by the Pennsylvania Dutch wilts local watercress, an indigenous ingredient once harvested by Native Americans. A Reuben …
Warming up to the hot brown
Throughout the 1920s, more than 1,200 guests a night would come to the Brown Hotel in Louisville, Ky., for its evening dinner dance. When they got tired in the early morning hours, they’d drop into the hotel restaurant for a bite to eat. Chef Fred Schmidt offered them ham and eggs until they got bored …
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