Pre-Order Food In The Civil War Era

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The farmers market has always been a rite of spring

While I was growing up in St. Louis in the 1960s, my mother established a weekly market routine. Every Saturday morning, we headed to Soulard Farmers Market to buy the weekʼs fruit and vegetable supply from local farmers. (Mom always adamantly avoided the “commission house” sellers. We ate local food even back then.) Fresh produce …

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Podcast: Matzah, pizza rustica and coconut cake

In this week’s podcast, Domenica Marchetti and Peter Ogburn discuss symbolic foods of the season; namely, Passover matzah and Italian Easter pie (pizza rustica). Turns out there’s matzah and then there’s Vermatzah, small-batch, whole-grain artisan matzah from a bakery in Vermont. Pizza rustica, on the other hand, is about as far from matzah as you …

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Yummy Light Rolls, Resurrection Rolls-by any name they taste as sweet

Whenever my family gets together for a celebratory meal, I’m expected to make Yummy Light Rolls. Instructions for the sticky treats — breakfast buns meet dinner rolls — wound up in my mom’s recipe box some time ago. The stained index card with chicken-scratch directions is an artifact now — my mom and I can recite …

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The Italian Easter Bunny leaves a pizza rustica

Sure, I looked forward to chowing down on chocolate bunnies and jelly beans on Easter morning when I was a kid. But I was just as excited about later in the day, when I could dig into a slice of my mother’s pizza rustica. Don’t let the word “pizza” fool you. This is no tomato- …

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Gefilte fish often starts with a bath

Most Jews know about the carp in the bathtub. Either they’ve seen it with their own eyes or they’ve heard stories. Through the mid-20th century, there was often a carp swimming in the bathtub in Jewish homes across the country just before Passover, destined to become gefilte fish. There’s even a children’s book: Barbara Cohen’s …

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Mr. Pig (Cochon 555) comes to Washington

The country’s biggest pig fest is making the rounds again, leaving satisfied customers (stuffed pigs?) in its wake. Cochon 555 stopped at Union Market in Washington, D.C., where hundreds of revelers ate, drank and wore pig noses. The event started six years ago to bring attention to heritage pig breeds. Each of five chefs is …

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Major-league ball parks score with local foods

Every major league baseball park has popcorn, peanuts and Cracker Jack. Now, however, there are also regional specialties wearing the uniform of the home team. Following are a few bites from each stadium in honor of opening day. Click here to tell us your favorites, and let us know which of your favorites we’ve missed. …

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For fans of fish fry, Lent brings little sacrifice

For Christians, Lent is the season of reflection and sacrifice leading up to Easter (April 20 this year). But there’s nothing penitential about one rite observed in some heavily Catholic regions of America: the Friday fish fry. It’s a festive indulgence of deep-fried fish, accompanied by potatoes (fries, pancakes or salad) and a tangy cole slaw, served in …

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Podcast: 3 food groups: pork, brisket, brownies

Bonny Wolf and Peter Ogburn recap the epic Cochon 555 event in Washington, D.C., on this week’s American Food Roots’ podcast. The big pig fest is one of 10 in the country, each featuring five chefs, with the king of pork to be crowned in Aspen, Colo., in June.  The podcast also features discussion of …

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Hospital food and ‘invalid cookery’ get healthy makeover

What do you feed someone who’s been laid low by illness, injury or surgery? American caregivers once spooned out porridge, gruels of milk and mushed bread or crackers, soft-cooked eggs and custards – forerunner of the popular BRAT diet, the bland repertoire of bananas, rice, apples and toast. “Common Sense in the Household,” a best-seller in …

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