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Each with its own culinary tradition

Missouri

Life with more than a dab of barbecue sauce

Musician Ry Cooder can take some credit for Ardie Davis’ position as barbecue sauce royalty. Davis was sitting in his Kansas City, Kan., home on a hot August day in 1984 reading about 80 barbecue joints across the country that he figured he’d never get to visit. Cooder’s “Paradise and Lunch” album was playing, and during the …

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Irish-American soda bread can have an Italian accent

Surely St. Patrick himself, born in Britain during Rome’s rule, reflected on his successful efforts to Christianize Ireland’s Celtic population. During his rumination, he feasted upon slices of iconic Irish soda bread topped with slabs of butter straight from cows grazing on Ireland’s green meadows. Soda bread, along with corned beef, cabbage and potatoes, are …

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Perennial Artisan Ale with a side of toasted ravioli

I was born in St. Louis and lived until I was 7 in a suburb not far from the muddy Mississippi, spending many happy, humid summer nights catching fireflies on its banks. Missouri is not just my own birthplace, though, it’s also the birthplace of the modern brewing industry — a fact that ensured it …

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Eating your way down America’s River

When you say “Mississippi River,” most people don’t immediately think “Lake Itasca, Minnesota.” But the northern glacial lake is the river’s source. And its course through northern states has a food story much different from the one more commonly told toward its southern terminus. In her new book, “Mississippi Current Cookbook,” restaurateur Regina Charboneau traces “a …

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Soulard Farmers Market is a St. Louis rite of spring

While I was growing up in St. Louis in the 1960s, my mother established a weekly market routine. Every Saturday morning, we headed to Soulard Farmers Market to buy the weekʼs fruit and vegetable supply from local farmers. (Mom always adamantly avoided the “commission house” sellers. We ate local food even back then.) Fresh produce …

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Community Kitchen: Eating local in St. Louis — backyard fruit and gooey butter cake

The local foods concept is déjà vu for me. I grew up in St. Louis in the 1960s, and seasonal, local food was simply how my family ate our way around the calendar. Strawberry picking and eating those fresh berries dripping juice straight from the plant meant that the school year was over. We had …

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Whoopie_pie_with_dusting_of_confectioner's_sugar

The Weekly List: State food trivia

  Lots of people know that Pennsylvania is famous for pretzels and who doesn’t associate New York with bagels? But where did pancake mix come from? What about Moon Pies? And which states might challenge each other to a whoopie pie smackdown? A little culinary excavation reveals state secrets. Arizona The first barrel of tequila …

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