October, 2012

Apples with a Southern accent

In 1982, Creighton Lee Calhoun Jr. set out to track down an apple called the Magnum Bonum. The apple, a fine-textured juicy variety with white flesh, had been described to Calhoun by a neighbor who lamented that he could no longer find it. It took two years but Calhoun, a retired Army lieutenant colonel and …

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Case of the missing cookbook

Did Stacey Viera steal her grandmother’s Rochester Hadassah Cookbook? Whether stolen or maybe…”borrowed”……Grandma Tillie – aka: Big Mama — wants it back. Otherwise how is she going to make her famous luchen kugel?

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Thoreau on apples

Some of Henry David Thoreau’s last worldly thoughts were of apples. “The Atlantic Monthly” had solicited several articles from Thoreau that he wrote in the last weeks of his life. He died of tuberculosis at 42. One of the pieces, called “Wild Apples,” was published in November 1862. “The Atlantic” has made it available online …

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Potato chips dip into regional flavors

When Daniel Mikesell decided to go into business in 1910, he figured dried beef and sausage were his tickets to success. “But then he saw an ad in the paper to buy used Saratoga chip equipment,” says his great-grandson Luke Mapp, the marketing director of Mikesell’s Potato Chip Co. in Dayton, Ohio. “He grew it …

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Steve Kim: Born to cook

Steve Kim’s first-ever memory is about food. The creator of the award-winning KimKim Korean Hot Sauce remembers being about 2 1/2 years old and holding his mother’s hand as they shopped at an open market in Inchon, South Korea. They stopped at a chicken vendor and selected a bird, then continued on their way. When they …

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U-Mich culinary archive stocks ingredients for scholarship

While appraising the late Julia Child’s books, Jan Longone got a call from the Boston lawyer overseeing the transaction. “He asked, ‘How can a cookbook be worth a thousand dollars?’ ” she recalls. “I sent him records from the dealers’ catalogues. People underestimate the value of culinary history.” At 79, she has spent decades striving …

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Memories baked in a pie

Diana Parsell learned to make pies as a girl in southeastern Ohio, watching her grandmother pinch together the fat and the flour in a large stainless steel bowl. Her grandmother’s secret ingredient – and the cookbook that rocked Diana’s pie-making world – are still with her today.

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Czech food beyond pork

If Americans know anything at all about Czech food it’s probably that there’s pork involved. And they probably only know that if they grew up in Chicago or trekked to Prague in the 1990s with thousands of other wannabe Hemingways. A festival spearheaded by the Czech Embassy in Washington, D.C., may fix all that. As …

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Regional feast continues

I wanted Raymond Sokolov’s job. Not the one he had writing about food for The New York Times or the one he had writing the “Eating Out” column for The Wall Street Journal. I wanted his job as a columnist for Natural History, the American Museum of Natural History’s magazine. I didn’t know I wanted …

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Thomas Jefferson’s revolutionary cuisine

We know Thomas Jefferson as one of the Founding Fathers, but he was also a great champion of newcomers to this country – newcomers such as eggplant and sesame. In his garden at Monticello, which still overlooks the Blue Ridge Mountains just south of Charlottesville, Va., Jefferson collected more than 330 varieties of what were …

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